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CI

CALERES INC (CAL)·Q4 2025 Earnings Summary

Executive Summary

  • Q4 delivered sales of $639.2M (-8.3% y/y; -4.0% excluding 53rd week) and adjusted EPS of $0.33 (GAAP $0.15). EPS beat S&P Global consensus ($0.26*) while revenue was slightly below ($646.0M*), reflecting softness at Famous Footwear and boots category pressure even as lead brands and sneakers outperformed .
  • FY25 outlook is conservative: sales down 1% to up 1%, operating margin 5.1%–5.6%, tax ~23%, GAAP EPS $2.80–$3.20; Q1 FY25 sales -5% to -6% and GAAP EPS $0.35–$0.40. Tariff headwinds modeled with roughly equal sharing between factories and CAL and a 30–40 bps gross margin hit at Brand Portfolio .
  • Strategic execution continued: lead brands gained share; sourcing pivot toward ~75% outside China by H2’25 (even higher for lead brands); Stuart Weitzman acquisition (excluded from guide) targeted to close summer 2025, funded via revolver .
  • Key near-term stock catalysts: EPS beat vs consensus despite a guarded FY25 guide; tariff mitigation and faster sourcing diversification; optionality from Stuart Weitzman integration post-close. Balance sheet ended with $219.5M borrowings and 1.1x debt/EBITDA; inventory +4.5% y/y .

What Went Well and What Went Wrong

What Went Well

  • Lead brands and sneakers outperformed; management: “We gained market share in women’s fashion footwear, our Lead Brands outperformed, and we grew our sneaker penetration.”
  • Accelerated sourcing diversification and tariff mitigation: “By the end of Q2 2025, we now expect about 75% of our direct product sourcing to be outside of China…higher than the goal we communicated last quarter.”
  • Famous cleared excess seasonal inventory; newest Flare stores outperformed rest of chain by ~10 points in Q4; 25 additional upgrades planned for 2025 .

What Went Wrong

  • Famous Footwear softness and boots weakness: Famous sales -9.6% y/y, comps -2.9%; boots declined high-single digits; total fashion declined mid-high single digits .
  • Margin pressure and expense deleverage: Q4 gross margin 43.0% (-80 bps y/y); SG&A 40.9% of sales (+180 bps) on lower sales base and deleverage .
  • Cautious consumer/value segment and wholesale partners; management expects continued headwinds early 2025; guidance embeds gross margin pressure in Q1 and SG&A deleverage on lower sales .

Financial Results

Consolidated results vs prior quarters and y/y

MetricQ2 2024Q3 2024Q4 2024
Revenue ($M)$683.3 $740.9 $639.2
Gross Margin %45.5% 44.1% 43.0%
GAAP Diluted EPS$0.85 $1.19 $0.15
Adjusted Diluted EPS$0.85 $1.23 $0.33

Notes: Q4 period is 13 weeks ended Feb 1, 2025 vs 14 weeks in prior year; net sales excluding 53rd week were down ~4% .

Actuals vs S&P Global consensus (quarterly)

MetricQ3 2024 (Actual vs Est.)Q4 2024 (Actual vs Est.)
Revenue ($M)$740.9 vs $751.4* $639.2 vs $646.0*
EPS (Primary/Adjusted)$1.23 vs $1.36* $0.33 vs $0.26*

Values marked with * are from S&P Global consensus; Values retrieved from S&P Global.

Segment performance – Q4 2024

Segment (Q4)Net Sales ($M)Gross Margin %Operating Earnings ($M)Operating Margin %Adjusted Operating Earnings ($M)Adjusted Margin %Comps %
Famous Footwear$358.4 42.5% $6.3 1.7% $6.7 1.9% -2.9%
Brand Portfolio$300.3 41.6% $23.0 7.7% $28.3 9.4% +0.5%
Eliminations/Other$(19.4) $(21.4) n/m$(21.5) n/m
Consolidated$639.2 43.0% $7.9 1.2% $13.4 2.1%

KPIs and operating metrics

KPIQ2 2024Q3 2024Q4 2024
Direct-to-Consumer Mix~75% ~72% ~73%
Famous Footwear Comps-2.9% +2.5% -2.9%
Brand Portfolio Comps+4.4% -2.7% +0.5%
Inventory ($M)$661.1 $585.9 $565.2
Revolver Borrowings ($M)$146.5 $238.5 $219.5
Debt/EBITDA (TTM)0.6x 1.0x 1.1x

Non-GAAP adjustments (Q4 2024)

  • GAAP to Adjusted EPS bridge: Naturalizer retail exit ($0.09), restructuring ($0.03), pension settlement ($0.06) → total +$0.18; GAAP $0.15 to Adjusted $0.33 .

Guidance Changes

MetricPeriodPrevious GuidanceCurrent GuidanceChange
Net Sales (y/y)FY 2025Down 1% to Up 1% Initial
Operating MarginFY 20255.1% to 5.6% Initial
Tax RateFY 2025~23% Initial
GAAP EPSFY 2025$2.80 to $3.20 Initial
CapexFY 2025$50–$55M Initial
Net Sales (y/y)Q1 2025Down 5% to 6% Initial
GAAP EPSQ1 2025$0.35 to $0.40 Initial

Context – FY 2024 guidance progression (for trend):

  • Post-Q3 (Dec 5, 2024): Sales down 2.5%–3.0%; GAAP EPS $3.35–$3.45; Adjusted EPS $3.45–$3.55 .
  • Update (Jan 13, 2025): Sales down 3.0%–3.5%; GAAP EPS $3.10–$3.20; Adjusted EPS $3.20–$3.30 .

Earnings Call Themes & Trends

TopicPrevious Mentions (Q2 2024, Q3 2024)Current Period (Q4 2024)Trend
Tariffs & SourcingPlan to pivot sourcing; >50% of Brand Portfolio dollars already ex-China; target ~70% ex-China by H2’25 Expect ~75% direct sourcing ex-China by end of Q2’25; equal cost-sharing with factories and CAL; 30–40 bps BP gross margin impact; selective retail price increases Accelerated sourcing away from China; quantified tariff margin impact
Category/Boots vs SneakersQ2/Q3: boots softness; fashion sneakers strength; kids and athletic strong at Famous Boots still weak; sneakers strong; Adidas/New Balance growth; women’s fashion down; kids in-line Persistent boots pressure; sneakers momentum sustained
Contemporary/Lead BrandsVince/Veronica Beard strength; lead brands outperformed Lead brands (Sam Edelman, Allen Edmonds, Naturalizer, Vionic) outperformed; expansion in contemporary; license launch Favorite Daughter; Stuart Weitzman acquisition planned Mix shift to higher-price contemporary; brand portfolio focus
Wholesale/PartnersLate athletic receipts in Q3; China softness; cautious family footwear Retail partners more cautious on receipts/inventory in 2025; sequential improvement expected through year Wholesale caution persists; CAL planning conservatively
Technology/AISAP ERP go-live referenced in Q1/Q2; restructuring/Opex investments AI pricing tool at Famous scaling to optimize promotions; further roll-out Commercialization of pricing AI to support gross margin

Management Commentary

  • CEO Jay Schmidt: “Our fourth quarter earnings were at the high end of our most recent guidance. We gained market share in women’s fashion footwear, our Lead Brands outperformed, and we grew our sneaker penetration… While 2024 overall was disappointing… we made meaningful progress in advancing our strategic priorities.”
  • On sourcing and tariffs: “By the end of the second quarter in 2025, we now expect about 75% of our direct product sourcing to be outside of China… For the remaining portion… we are well positioned to manage additional tariffs through a combination of factory negotiations, selective price increases, and modest gross margin pressure.”
  • CFO Jack Calandra on tariff impact: “We have assumed that equal shares of the tariff increases will be absorbed by our factory partners and by the company… On the gross margin impact to Brand Portfolio on the year… about 30 to 40 basis points.”
  • On 2025 phasing: “We do expect sequential quarterly improvement throughout the year… Famous improvement from new product introductions and leadership changes… Brand Portfolio benefits from lapping SAP issues (~$15M), international growth, Favorite Daughter launch, and Allen Edmonds wholesale door growth.”

Q&A Highlights

  • Phasing and cadence: Sequential quarterly improvement expected in 2025; Famous assisted by new product and leadership; Brand Portfolio aided by anniversaries of discrete headwinds (SAP), international growth, and new initiatives .
  • Q1 dynamics: EPS guide reflects gross margin pressure (tariffs/markdowns) and SG&A deleverage on lower sales; Q1 op margin will be the lowest of the year .
  • Tariff mechanics: Low single-digit selective price increases; company absorbing part of tariffs and expecting 30–40 bps BP gross margin impact; retail pricing calibrated to avoid demand destruction .
  • Famous execution: Flare stores continue to outperform; 25 additional upgrades and one new store planned; merchandising leadership bolstered with a new CMO hire .
  • Wholesale & consumer tone: Retail partners remain cautious on inventory; value-oriented consumer under pressure; March month-to-date improved vs weak February .

Estimates Context

  • Q4 (13 weeks): Revenue $639.2M vs $646.0M* consensus; EPS (Primary/Adjusted) $0.33 vs $0.26* (beat). Q3: Revenue $740.9M vs $751.4M*; EPS $1.23 vs $1.36* (miss) .
  • With a conservative FY25 outlook and explicit tariff impact, Street models likely recalibrate toward the midpoint of guidance near-term while tracking potential upside from sequential improvement and category normalization later in 2025 .

Values marked with * are from S&P Global consensus; Values retrieved from S&P Global.

Key Takeaways for Investors

  • Quality of earnings better than feared: Q4 EPS beat despite sales miss; mix and disciplined promo managed gross margin, with tactical tariff mitigation embedded in FY25 guide .
  • Conservative FY25 setup: Low bar with flat sales outlook, explicit 30–40 bps Brand Portfolio tariff hit, and weakest profitability in Q1 tees up sequential improvement catalysts across the year .
  • Strategic mix shift continues: Strength in lead brands and contemporary (Vince, Veronica Beard; Favorite Daughter launching) plus Stuart Weitzman adds higher-price, DTC/international optionality post-close (ex-guidance) .
  • Sourcing de-risking is material: ~75% ex-China by mid-2025 reduces tariff exposure and supply concentration risk relative to peers .
  • Famous execution focus: Clearing inventory, Flare store expansion, and pricing science (AI) support share and margin; kids remains a durable traffic driver .
  • Balance sheet/liquidity manageable: Revolver borrowings $219.5M; 1.1x debt/EBITDA; capex guided to $50–$55M to support growth initiatives .
  • Watch list: Boots normalization, wholesale reorder cadence, consumer/value segment elasticity, tariff policy evolution, and close/timing/integration of Stuart Weitzman .

Appendix: Additional Data

FY 2024 fourth quarter detail (y/y)

Metric (Q4 y/y)Result
Sales$639.2M (-8.3% y/y; -4.0% ex-53rd week)
Gross Profit / Margin$275.1M; 43.0% (-80 bps)
SG&A % of Sales40.9% (+180 bps)
GAAP Net Income / Diluted EPS$4.9M; $0.15
Adjusted Net Income / Adjusted Diluted EPS$11.1M; $0.33

Balance sheet and cash flow (FY 2024)

  • Inventory $565.2M (+4.5% y/y); Cash $29.6M; Borrowings $219.5M; TTM EBITDA $206.7M; TTM Adj EBITDA $216.6M; Debt/EBITDA 1.1x .
  • Operating cash flow $104.6M; Capex $49.1M; Share repurchases $65.0M; Dividends $9.7M .

Transaction update

  • Stuart Weitzman acquisition: $105M cash purchase price; customary adjustments; transition services; expected close summer 2025; excluded from FY25 guidance .